Electric Motor Car

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electric motor

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Unexplained Phenomenon – Simplest Electric Motor

Understanding Modern Electrical Motors

Understanding Modern Electrical Motors

Modern electrical motors are available in many different forms, such as single phase motors, three phase motors, brake motors, synchronous motors, asynchronous motors, special customised motors, two speed motors, three speed motors, and so on, all with their own performance and characteristics.

For each type of motor there are many different mounting arrangements, for example foot mounting, flange mounting or combined foot and flange mounting. The cooling method can also differ very much, from the simplest motor with free self-circulation of air to a more complex motor with totally enclosed air-water cooling with an interchangeable cassette type of cooler.

To ensure a long lifetime for the motor it is important to keep it with the correct degree of protection when under heavy-duty conditions in a servere environment. The two letters IP (International Protection) state the degree of protection followed by two digits, the first of which indicates the degree of protection against contact and penetration of solid objects, whereas the second states the motor’s degree of protection against water.

The end of the motor is defined in the IEC-standard as follows:

• The D-end is normally the drive end of the motor.
• The N-end is normally the non-drive end of the motor.

Squirrel Cage Motors

In this book the focus has been placed on the squirrel cage motor, the most common type of motor on the market. It is relatively cheap and the maintenance cost is normally low. There are many different manufacturers represented on the market, selling at various prices. Not all motors have the same performance and quality as for example motors from ABB. High efficiency enables significant savings in energy costs during the motor’s normal endurance. The low level of noise is something else that is of interest today, as is the ability to withstand severe environments.

There are also other parameters that differ. The design of the rotor affects the starting current and torque and the variation can be really large between different manufacturers for the same power rating. When using a Softstarter it is good if the motor has a high starting torque at Direct-on-line (D.O.L) start. When these motors are used together with a softstarter it is possible to reduce the starting current further when compared to motors with low starting torque. The number of poles also affects the technical data. A motor with two poles often has a lower starting torque than motors with four or more poles.

Voltage

Three-phase single speed motors can normally be connected for two different voltage levels. The three stator windings are connected in star (Y) or delta (D).

The windings can also be connected in series or parallel, Y or YY for instance. If the rating plate on a squirrel cage motor indicates voltages for both the star and delta connection, it is possible to use the motor for both 230 V, and 400 V as an example.

The winding is delta connected at 230 V and if the main voltage is 400 V, the Y-connection is used.

When changing the main voltage it is important to remember that for the same power rating the rated motor current will change depending on the voltage level.

The method for connecting the motor to the terminal blocks for star or delta connection is shown in the picture below.

Power Factor

A motor always consumes active power, which it converts into mechanical action. Reactive power is also required for the magnetisation of the motor but it doesn’t perform any action. In the diagram below the active and reactive power is represented by P and Q, which together give the power S.

The ratio between the active power (kW) and the reactive power (kVA) is known as the power factor, and is often designated as the cos ?. A normal value is between 0.7 and 0.9, when running where the lower value is for small motors and the higher for large ones.

Speed

The speed of an AC motor depends on two things: the number of poles of the stator winding and the main frequency. At 50 Hz, a motor will run at a speed related to a constant of 6000 divided by the number of poles and for a 60 Hz motor the constant is 7200 rpm.

This speed is the synchronous speed and a squirrel-cage or a slip-ring motor can never reach it. At unloaded condition the speed will be very close to synchronous speed and will then drop when the motor is loaded.

The difference between the synchronous and asynchronous speed also named rated speed is “the slip” and it is possible to calculate this by using the following formula:

Table for synchronous speed at different number of poles and frequency:

Torque

The starting torque for a motor differs significantly depending on the size of the motor. A small motor, e.g. ? 30 kW, normally has a value of between 2.5 and 3 times the rated torque, and for a medium size motor, say up to 250 kW, a typical value is between 2 to 2.5 times the rated torque. Really big motors have a tendency to have a very low starting torque, sometimes even lower than the rated torque. It is not possible to start such a motor fully loaded not even at D.O.L start.

The rated torque of a motor can be calculated using the following formula:

Slip-Ring Motors

In some cases when a D.O.L start is not permitted due to the high starting current, or when starting with a star-delta starter will give too low starting torque, a slip-ring motor is used. The motor is started by changing the rotor resistance and when speeding up the resistance is gradually removed until the rated speed is achieved and the motor is working at the equivalent rate of a standard squirrel-cage motor.

The advantage of a slip-ring motor is that the starting current will be lower and it is possible to adjust the starting torque up to the maximum torque. In general, if a softstarter is going to be used for this application you also need to replace the motor.

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ABB Group

Is it possible to do build a wind power generator to turn a small electric motor?

The quoted question is:

Yes, absolutely. What’s more, it’s actually quite easy. You won’t get significant amounts of power out of it but it will run a very small electric motor so long as you use a generator that is significantly larger than the motor you are driving.

You’ll need something that you can use for windmill blades and a motor that you can drive as a generator.

The best and easiest solution is to use a radiator fan from a modern car. Most modern cars use electrically powered fans and this is perfect for you because it takes care of the fan assembly and the generator in one go without the need for a complex assembly procedure. They are cheap and easy to get hold of too. Any car wreckers should be able to sell you one for under $20.

This type of fan is not the ideal configuration for capturing wind (they are designed to generate airflow from electricity, not electricity from airflow) but the advantages you get from simplifying the construction process more than makes up for this. Also, as far as I am aware, they are all DC motors which is exactly what you need.

Because a generator is identical in construction to a motor, this fan will generate electricity for you without any need for modification. All you have to do us hook up your small hobby motor to the terminals of the fan motor and put it somewhere where there is enough wind to get the fan spinning. You should be able to generate up to 12v depending on how fast you can get it spinning. If you find that it takes more airflow than you can manage to get it spinning fast enough, you can always construct a ram scoop (like a big funnel with the wide end open and facing the incoming wind and the fan across the narrow end) so that the wind is scooped in from a wider area and forced through the fan at higher speed. This doesn’t need to be that strong, corrugated cardboard (like you get from cardboard boxes) would probably do the trick.

So long as you get the fan spinning at a reasonable rate, you should be able to easily power a small motor. Of course, as soon as the fan slows or stops, so does the motor so it’s not really a viable solution for real world applications. It should be fine as a simple experiment to demonstrate wind power though.

If you want it to be a bit more practical (i.e. actually work in the real world rather than it just be for demonstration purposes), it would probably be better to run the motor from a battery and use the generator to recharge the battery. This is how proper wind powered systems work. However, the setup becomes more complex when you do this and some circuitry is required to manage the recharging of the battery, among other things, so unless you have some experience with electronics, I wouldn’t advise it.

It sounds like this is outside of the parameters of your experiment anyway.

The motor you are going to drive should, ideally, be able to run on voltages between about 3VDC and 12VDC but cheap and easy to find motors like this one (http://www.jaycar.com.au/ShowLargephoto.asp?id=3255&IMAGE=) that is designed to run on voltages from 3V to 4.5VDC will still probably work OK for your purposes. If it is fed 12V continuously for long periods of time, it may overheat and burn out but, considering your setup, it will probably last at least long enough to meet your needs. If you do go for a low voltage motor like this and you want to make sure you don’t damage it, just make sure that you don’t spin the fan too fast and monitor the temperature of the motor. If it starts getting hot (i.e. too hot to touch), stop it and let it cool down for a while before you start it again. It’s not too big a deal if you do burn it out though, these motors retail for about $2 so you won’t exactly go broke if you kill it.

Good luck with it.

Hope this helps.

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